Time to Say Good-bye...

TIME TO SAY GOODBYE…

This has been an incredible journey: I have been to 25 countries across 5 continents in 128 days, I have crossed the equator 4 times and have covered 45,400 miles from Fort Lauderdale, Florida and back. That translates to 1.6 times around the world. I have become accustomed to the daily motion of the ocean, I have set foot on idyllic islands; I have seen and experienced so much and learned a great deal about geography, people, different customs and myself! I feel I have a better understanding of global conditions and people around the world. I was constantly pinching myself to make sure that this was not a dream.

I have sailed through the Panama Canal, I have walked on rope bridges in the rain forest of Costa Rica, I saw kangaroos in Australia, saw the famous Borobudur Temple in Semarang, Indonesia, bargained in the markets of Hong Kong and Shanghai, saw the Terra Cotta soldiers in Xi’an, climbed the Great Wall in China and walked through Tienenman Square. I rode an elephant in Thailand and I marveled at the sight of the Taj Mahal in India. I gasped at the glitz, glitter and glamour of Dubai, and saw men at prayer in a huge mosque in Oman. I swam in the turquoise blue water of the Seychelles and survived the pirate attack on the Maersk Alabama which was docked next to us in the Seychelles. I bargained for wood carvings in Mombasa, Kenya and rode a gondola to the top of Table Mountain in Cape Town. I rode an ostrich in South Africa and saw penguins at the Cape of Good Hope. I rode an ATV on the sand dunes of the Nambid Desert in Namibia and saw Napoleon’s Tomb on St. Helena. I saw the remnants of the prisons on the French penal colony of Devil’s Island and listened to the music of the pan steel drums in Trinidad. I experienced a submarine ride to a depth of 150 feet in Bridgetown, Barbados and I collected shells on the beautiful beaches on the French island of St. Barts. But alas all good things must come to an end, and before I knew it, my amazing odyssey around the world was over. All that is left are treasured memories of new friends and a memorable trip.

I shall now say au revoir and thank those of you who followed my fascinating trip on my blog. See you soon!

Stela

GUSTAVIA, ST. BARTHELEMY
Mother’s Day, May 10, 2009

This is paradise! I spent Mother’s Day on beautiful Shell Beach on St. Barts. The Caribbean was warm (82F), the weather was perfect (82F) and the turquoise water was so refreshing. I collected a bag of St. Barts shells to remind me of this unbelievable day. I made a new friend “Berte” a three year old female Jack Russell just like the one my sister Svata and Dick have. She loved the water, went snorkeling with her master and played fetch the log with me. I was able to practice my French because that’s all Berte understood: viens ici! and va chercher!

St. Barthelemy is an overseas collectivity of France, also known as St. Barth in French or St. Barts in English. It is one of the most chic, civilized and least known parts of France. It is a tiny island of only eight square miles, with a population of 8500 which doubles during the winter months.It is fifteen miles from St. Maarten. It is a perfect playground for the rich and famous with its high-priced boutiques and beautiful resorts When Christopher Columbus discovered the island in 1493, he named it after his brother Bartholomeo. In 1784 St. Barts was taken over by Sweden. The King of France had simply swapped the island for trading rights in the Baltic without consulting the people of St. Barts. In 1878 King Oscar II put sovereignty to a referendum and St. Barts was handed back to France.

Since Gustavia does not have a deep harbor to accommodate the ms Rotterdam, we were taken ashore by tender. It is a lovely town, nestled between the hilly landscape. Many yachts were anchored in the harbor; however, the season is almost over, most visitors are sailing back to cooler locations for the summer months. The red roofs on the houses, the yachts and the hills reminded me of the French Riviera. The tourist industry has grown in the last 30 years, but St. Barts has maintained its exclusive and luxurious style. I was reluctant to leave beautiful Shell Beach but I promised myself that one day I shall return.

Bridgetown, Barbados

BRIDGETOWN, BARBADOS

Bridgetown, in southwestern Barbados, is the capital of the island on Carlisle Bay in the West Indies. Sugar refining, rum production, clothing, electrical parts and tourism are important industries. The English founded Bridgetown in 1628 and as the capital of the British dependency of Barbados, it became the capital of independent Barbados in 1966. The island is 166 square miles and has a population of 270,000. It is generally flat along the coast and hilly in the interior. It is not a volcanic island; limestone and coral are found throughout.

In the morning we embarked on an interesting adventure: we boarded the Atlantis Odyssey Submarine and descended to a depth of 150 feet where we saw coral reefs, colorful fish , a sunken shipwreck, a huge sea turtle and many forms of undersea plant life. In the afternoon we took a tour of the island. We passed beautiful beaches and resorts and stopped for photographs at the famous Sandy Lane Golf and Country Club where Tiger Woods plays and where he was married. It is magnificent but very expensive, one night’s stay costs US$1500 and the minimum stay is 5 nights.

On board in the evening we were treated to an exciting Barbados Folkloric Music and Dance Show, performed by local artists. A wonderful ending to a great day in Barbados.

PORT OF SPAIN, TRINIDAD

We continued north-west from Devil’s Island in the Caribbean Sea to Port of Spain, Trinidad. It is located off the coast of Venezuela and is the southern-most point of the Caribbean Islands. The population is approx. 1,047,400. There are 2 islands, Trinidad and Tobago, Trinidad being the larger of the two which is 14 miles wide and 18 miles long . It gained its independence from Britain in 1962 and became a republic within the Commonwealth. Trinidad-Tobago is one of the most prosperous and stable democratic nations in the Caribbean. Languages spoken are English, French and Spanish. It is home to two of the largest banks in the Caribbean and a major shipping hub.

We were fortunate to have a very knowledgable tour guide, Harry, of Indian descent to drive us around the island. He and his countrymen are very proud of the fact that the recent “Summit of the Americas” on April 15-18 was held in Port of Spain and they are very fond of U.S. President Obama. His posters can be seen all around the city. Harry told us that the population of Trinidad is 42% East Indian, 38% African and the rest are European, Syrian and American.

We stopped at the Botanical Gardens where we saw a “sausage tree”, a boot strap tree, brazil nut tree and a tree with multi-colored bark called the “rainbow” tree.

Trinidad celebrates Carnival in a big way, murals ahound on city walls and buildings. It is also the home of steel drum pan music. Although our stay here was short, thanks to Harry we saw a good portion of the city and learned a great deal about Trinidad.

Devil's Island, French Guiana

Devil's Island, French Guiana

DEVIL’S ISLAND, FRENCH GUIANA

We sailed north making our way to the Caribbean to the Iles du Salut or Salvation Islands. These are three islands: Isle du Diable, Isle Royale and Isle St. Joseph located off the coast of French Guiana. We stopped at the most famous of these French penal colony islands: Devil’s Island which was opened by the French in 1852 and where the most hardened criminals were sent: political prisoners, thieves and murderers. The harsh conditions and rampant spread of disease, the remote location, rocky coastline and treacherous waters made escape virtrually impossible. It was nicknamed the “Green Hell.” In 1938 France stopped sending prisoners and in 1952 the prison was closed forever.

In 1931 Henri Charriere was convicted of murder and sent to Devil’s Island. He tried to escape several times but was caught and sent to Isle St. Joseph for two years in solitary confinement. He feigned madness, escaped in a boat, was caught and was sent to Isle Royale where they put “incorrigibles” in chains. His last attempt at escape was successful: he tied sacks of coconuts together, threw them in the ocean and floated on them to Venezuela. He wrote his story titled “Papillon”(butterfly) which he published in 1969. He was pardoned by the French government and in 1973 the film version of “Papillon” came out. A new version is now being filmed in the Canary Islands. This is a great film, try to rent it if you can. It starred Steve McQueen and Dustin Hoffman.

There is no port here, we were taken to shore by tender. We walked around the island, looking at the remains of the prisons, walking on the crude stone roads and climbed the uneven steps. We saw the cemetery and could not help but imagine ghosts and history of the people who lived here so many years ago. The island is lush and beautiful. We climbed to the top for a breath-taking view of the three islands in the Atlantic Ocean.
This was a memorable visit into the past.

GEORGETOWN, ASCENSION ISLAND

We left St. Helena and traveled 800 miles north in the Atlantic to a British dependency and one of the most remote places in the world: Ascension Island. It is located between South America and Africa along the mid-Atlantic undersea volcanic ridge. It is a stark volcanic island with very little vegetation. Because there is no harbor to accommodate large vessels, we were anchored off shore and had to be tendered in.The ocean was somewhat rough with 6 foot waves and it took some maneuvering to dock on the small pier.

Ascension Island came to international notice during the Falklands war when it served as a staging post for the British forces en route to and from the Falklands. Today it serves as a communications missile and satellite tracking station, the British and U.S. have intelligence information stations here as well as the BBC and the British and U.S. air forces. The population is about 1000 people, most of which are here on a 2 year contract, there are very few permanent residents. There is an airfield built in 1942 by US Army Engineers.

Postage stamps are the main source of income, much sought after by collectors. There is a small hotel but because of the island’s remoteness, there is not much tourism.

The island is also known for its Green Sea turtles. Thousands of these turtles travel 1200 miles annually from South America to lay their eggs here and then return to South America. We walked on one of the few beautiful beaches and found turtle prints, this is the egg laying season which happens at night. The eggs looks like white golf balls.

At 4 p.m. we set sail in a northerly direction in the Atlantic Ocean for Devil’s Island, French Guiana. We will be at sea for 4 days.

JAMESTOWN, ST. HELENA

There are three Atlantic Islands: St. Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha. They are all dependencies of the United Kingdom. St. Helena is one of the last relics of the colonies in the South Atlantic Ocean. It is 1200 miles from Africa and 1800 miles from Brazil.The capital is Jamestown. It is volcanic in origin, but there are vast, lush green areas as well as mountains and hills The scenery is stunning.. The entire island is 47 square miles and the population is approx. 6000 people, mostly in Jamestown. There is no airport; a ship comes by every 2 weeks with mail and supplies.The chief products are potatoes and flax. The island has a governor and is a British Overseas Territory. It is Britain’s second oldest colony, the firstt being Bermuda. The main source of income are the beautiful postage stamps which are collectors’ items.

The Portuguese first landed on St. Helena in 1502 and it became an important stopping place for shipping vessels on their way to the East Indies. The English landed there in 1588 and for many years after, possession of the island was contested.

In 1815 Napoleon Bonaparte, a great military genius, was sent into exile here following his defeat by the Duke of Wellington at the Battle of Waterloo. He lived in a stately private home called Longwood House.He had 35 servants and 3 chefs and was permitted to roam the island freely. He even chose the location for his tomb. Six years later, in 1821 Napoleon died, presumably from stomach cancer. In 1840 King Louis Philippe of France ordered his body to be brought back to Paris where he is now buried under Les Invalides.

WALVIS BAY, NAMIBIA


Our next stop in Namibia after Luderitz was Walvis Bay. It is about 600 miles north of Luderitz on the Atlantic coast. It too is a former colony of Germany and later a territory of South Africa. It gained its independence from South Africa in 1990. The population of Namibia is about 2 million people in a space twice the size of California and it is rated as one of the planet’s most sparsely populated nations.

Walvis Bay is a beautiful, clean city in a desert environment with a rich German and British background. A natural attraction are the renown sand dunes of the Nambid Desert. They are more than 400 miles long and up to 600 feet high. Quad-biking (ATV’s) and sand boarding are popular sports here. There are breath-taking white beaches and a lagoon south of town is the habitat for flamingos, pelicans and many other forms of marine life. Exotic animals like zebras, giraffes and ostriches can be seen calmly grazing along the roadside.

Next to mining, tourism is the second most lucrative industry in Namibia. In 2006 Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt chose Walvis Bay as a secluded spot for the birth of their daughter and this has boosted tourism.
My ride on Dune 7 as a passenger on an ATV was one of my most exciting experiences here. Riding through the sand dunes was almost like skiing on fresh snow. There was so much to do and see but not enough time. I hope I can return some day to spend more time in this amazing country.

LUDERITZ, NAMIBIA

The country of Namibia is located on the south western coast of Africa, bordered by Angola on the north, Botswana on the east and South Africa on the south. The Nambid Desert stretches 1200 miles along the coast, it is arid, hot and there is very little vegetation. In places the landscape is similar to that of the moon and astronauts train here for their moon walks. There are sand dunes everywhere, some of them are up to one mile wide and 800 feet high.

Namibia means ‘place of emptiness’. It is an emerging country and gained its independence from South Africa in 1990. It was part of Germany until the end of WW1 through the Treaty of Versailles.

In 1883 the area was founded by a German merchant Adolf Luderitz who purchased the land from a local Nama chief. Luderitz was mostly a trading post.and the economy depended on fishing and guano-harvesting which is used to make fertilizer. Luderitz is a charming German village. Languages spoken are English and Afrikaans In 1909 diamonds were discovered here which resulted in a huge burst of prosperity. Kolmanskop which was the hub of the diamond mines is now a ghost town and is owned by the Namdeb Diamond Company. We were fortunate to have an interesting young man as our guide. His name was Leonard Namupala, a member of the South African Olympic racing team and he was 17th in the 42 km event. When he is not training, he acts as a guide to supplement his income.
We spent a pleasant day exploring the sights and in the late afternoon we set sail for Walvis Bay.

Cape Town, South Africa

CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA

We sailed south in the Indian Ocean from Durban, around the Cape of Good Hope and about noon, there before us against white clouds and blue skies was Table Mountain in all its splendor. What a breath-taking sight! Again I had to pinch myself to believe that I was really there! The only negative to this glorious sight was the high wind and rough, choppy waters. Unfortunately due to the gale force winds, the harbor to Cape Town was closed to shipping vessels, therefore we had to anchor outside the breakwater until the winds calmed down. It was not until 10 hours later, at 10 p.m. that we received clearance to sail into the harbor and dock at the pier.

The population of South Africa is 5 million and Cape Town is the legislative capital. It lies at the foot of Table Mountain which is 3570 feet high. Table Mountain is named after its flat top and when there is a cloud cover, it is called a tablecloth. It is a busy commercial and industrial center with a busy port and is the tourism capital of South Africa. There are many fine museums, universities and hospitals. In 1969 Dr. Christian Bernard performed the first heart transplant at the Groote Schuur Hospital in Cape Town.

We were fortunate to have 2 days there. Our first day we visited an ostrich farm, we even sat on one! Did you know that one ostrich egg is equivalent to 24 chicken eggs? That’s some omelet! We then visited Durbanville Winery, tasted 6 great South African wines and had a tour of the winery. Because of its climate, South Africa produces some excellent wines. We spent the rest of the day at Victoria & Albert Waterfront on the wharf, visiting the many shops and watching the ships & sailboats in the harbor.

The next day we were fortunate to have a great guide who took us on a city tour. Her knowledge of history was amazing. She was a very proud South African and proud of her Indian heritage. We took the gondola to the top of Table Mountain, a 4 minute ride, The gondola has a revolving floor thus enabling all the passengers to have a good view of the city below which was breath-taking. In the afternoon we took a tour south to Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope, the farthest most southern point on the African continent. We passed many beautiful beaches, some reminded me of our own Newport Beach!
We stopped at Simon’s Town to see the colony of South African penguins. In 1927 six of these small, black & white penguins migrated from Antarctica and today there are 10,000 of them. They were very friendly and very photogenic!

We were sad to leave this beautiful city but looked forward to our next stop: Namibia.

Durban, South Africa

DURBAN, SOUTH AFRICA

On Christmas, 1497 the Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama landed on the KwaZulu-Natal coast while searching for a route from Europe to India. He named it ‘Natal’ or Christmas in Portuguese.

The city of Durban is the largest city in the province of KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa and is famous as a major tourism center due to the city’s warm climate and beautiful beaches. Durban has the busiest port in South Africa and the busiest container port in the Southern Hesmisphere. Until 2002 is was a full naval base but today it only contains a naval station and other military facilities.

We stopped at the Victoria Market in the center of Durban. It is 3 floors of stalls, run by Indians (from India) selling a huge variety of Indian goods. We were fortunate to find things here that we didn’t get a chance to buy in Mumbai! The aroma of spices dominated the whole market. I was able to buy saffron from Iran and vanilla beans from Madagascar. Here like most of the countries we visited, we had to bargain – we never paid the first asking price and most of us have become experts!

We drove along the ‘Golden Mile’ which is a stretch of beach along the Indian Ocean with beautiful resort hotels, malls and shops of all kinds. However, we were warned to be aware of sharks in the ocean. The heritage of the Zulus is handicrafts, expert weaving, intricately beaded work. The jewelry was spectacular. Even the Zulu rickshaws at the beach were totally beaded! We purchased some of the beautiful beaded jewelry which will always remind us of the friendly and kind Zulu people.

Richard's Bay, South Africa

RICHARD’S BAY, SOUTH AFRICA

Is South Africa’s largest harbor on the northern coast of the province of Kwa-Zulu-Natal., which is one of the poorest provinces of South Africa. This is the homeland of the Zulu tribe, some of whom worked in the mines. It is a patriarchal community and some Zulus still live in the villages, headed by a male leader. Mining is one of the main industries, which includes gold, copper, diamonds, minerals, coal, and ore. There is not much gas or oil. Kimberly is the main diamond mine. Crops grown are corn, wheat, sugar cane, and grapes.

Shakaland, a Zulu village, which was used for the TV series, is now a cultural center.

Richard’s Bay is the gateway to wild life; many safaris can be booked from here. There are many game preserves and more animals than Kenya but less variety.

Maputo, Mozambique, Africa

MAPUTO, MOZAMBIQUE, AFRICA

Maputo is the capital city of Mozambique, located on the east coast, bordered by Tanzania on the north, Zambia and Zimbawe on the west and South Africa on the south. The Portuguese landed here in the 16th century and started trade with the Asia.in the great harbor. Today 90% of the economy of Mozambique depends on the export of its resources: coconuts, cashews, spices, shrimp, lobster, coffee, tea, potatoes, sunflowers (for their oil) The official language is Portuguese, English and many dialects.

Mozambique is a poor country, the average yearly income is $800. However, it is an emerging nation, anxious to build up its tourism industry. It has been through 17 years of civil war in which over one million people died, followed by cyclone after cyclone, floods and famine. The civil war ended in 1992 and slowly Mozambique is getting back on its feet for the first time in 2 decades. Gas and oil are precious commodities. Roads and railroad tracks are being rebuilt, and trains are running again. The great dome of the railway station built in 1908-1910 was designed by Gustav Eiffel. The Portuguese influence can be seen in the architecture of Maputo. One of the sights in downtown Maputo is the five-star Polana Hotel with its old world charm, beautiful gardens and famous wrought iron elevator.

This was a maiden stop for the ms Rotterdam and we were all pleasantly surprised. The people were very friendly, most spoke English and were very anxious to sell us their craft work: wood carvings, silver work, leather, textiles, batik, and bright ceramics. Bargaining is essential in many countries and I must say we are becoming very good at it!